Cutting sole for the attachment of wood heels



A 1937. F. ANDERSON ET AL 2,088,562

CUTTING SOLE FOR THE ATTACHMEN TOF WOOD HEELS Original Filed. April 21,1954 Patented Aug. 3, 1937 UNITED STATES CUTTING SOLE FORTHE ATTACHMENTOF WOOD HEELS Frederick L. Anderson, Haverhill, Mass, and

Nicolas Crispino, Keene, N. H., assignors to United Shoe MachineryCorporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application,April 21,"1934,Serial No. 721,668

Renewed December 28, 1936 2 Claims. (01. 12-146) This inventionrelatesto methods, employed in the preparation of soles to be used inthe construction of shoes to which a wood heel, either of the French orLouis type, or the military or Cuban type is to be attached,andwhichwhen attached should have the rim of the base seat firmlyagainst the shoe upper about the heel seat.

As a sufiicient portion of the heel part of the sole must be retainedfor the attachment of the heel by, inside nailing, it has been customaryto cuton the heel by beveling the edge portion ofthe sole with a. hand,knife, which operation may be satisfactorily performed, but whichrequires a considerable degree of skill in its performance and is slowand expensive, and, also by removing the edge portion of the heel partup to the heel breast by meansof a cutting die, as

in patent Brauner et al. No. 1,606,055, Nov. 9,

The latter method, while it tends greatly to reduce the expense ofcutting on the heel is defective on account of, the difliculty in makinga satisfactory joint, between the upper and the cor- 25 nets of the heelat the heelbreast.

For example, when a heelof the military or Cuban type is attached to ashoe of the McKay type, the breast edge must bear on the sole surfaceentirely across the same, and while the edge 30 portion of the sole heelpart may be cut away up nearly to the breastedge so as to permit nearlyall of the base of, the heel, to bear against the upper, if the sole isleft the full thickness directly. beneath thebreast edge of, the heel,the heel ,rim will be prevented from seating against the upper atthispoint leaving an open joint adjacent the breastedge, or if the edgeportion of the heel part of the sole is cut away tothe breast edge, soas to permit the heel lip to seat 40 against the upperat this point, anobjectionable shoulder will, be left on the sole in front of the heel.

It is also essential that the back portion of the heel should seat onthe upper at the back of the 5 ,shoe in a certain position, so that, incutting on the heel after the sole has been attached, it is customaryforthe workman to set the heel in its correct positionon the shoe andmark the position of the heel breast on the sole and'then 50 cut ashoulder in the sole against which the heel breast sets, so that, whenthe heel is attached, it will be correctly positioned.

This practice necessitates keeping the particular heel, which has beencut on, with the shoe 55' which ithas been out onto until the heel isfinally attached, otherwise an open joint is likely to be left at thepoint where the heel breast is supposed to abut against the shoulder,and, even under these conditions an imperfect joint is liable to beformed at this point. i

This difiiculty has been partly obviated by extending the channel flapover the shoulder, but, unless the shoulder is formed in exactly thecorrest position with reference to the particular heel which isattached, the results will not be satisfactory, as an unsightlydepression is likely to be formed in the sole in front of theheelbreast.

In other words uniformly satisfactory results are only secured when theheel is seated firmly on the grain surface of the sole throughout theentire width of both the sole and the heel breast, without having ashoulder formed in the sole and, at the same time, the rim of the heelis seated firmly on the upper at the heel breast, as well as at otherpoints. i 7

In the mass productionof shoes, if the sole can be prepared prior to itsattachment to the upper, so that the entire cutting on operation may beeliminated and s o that, when the heel is correctly positioned on theshoe, it will not only seat firmly against the upper entirely about, thesides and back, but will also seat firmly on the sole at its breast edgeentirely across the sole to the upper at each side of the shoe, then aconsiderable savof hand cutting on be avoided, but thetabove noteddifficulties incident to making a satisfactory joint between theheel'and the upper at the heel breast will be avoided when the adjacentedge portions of the sole heel part are cut away,

so as to permit theheel to seat against theupper,

wherebythe entire expense-of cutting on the heel may be eliminated and:satisfactory results may be secured.

We accomplish this object, in the production of shoes of the McKay sewedtype, which carry heels of the military type, by first channeling thesole and bending back the channel flap onto the middle portion of thegrain side of the sole, and

then, by meansof a special machinedesignedfor end portions of the cut ateach side of the heel portions of the breast edge thereof will bear di'rectly on the channel flap over the ,beveled edge portion, and, as theflap at this point will be yieldingly supported by the beveled edgebeneath it, this portion of the sole will yield sufficiently to permitthe rim portion of the' heel adjacent its breast, to be pressed againstthe upper, while at the same time the end portions of the breast edgewill be held in firm engagement with the surface of the channel flap,the necessity of forming a shoulder at each side of the sole at or nearthe breast line being thus avoided.

In consequence, while the cutting operation will be made, withinreasonable limits, with reference to the size of the base of the heel tobe attached, yet substantial variation in this respect will be permittedwithout affecting the closeness with which the heel will be engaged withthe upper and sole.

"For a more complete disclosure of the invention reference is now madeto thefollowing specification in connection with the accompanyingdrawing, in" which: I

, Fig. 1 indicates the two members of a simple form of dieing outmachine, which is employed.

Fig. 2 is a plan View of the bed member.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view at line 3-3 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is an edge view of the bed plate.

Fig. 15 is a plan view of acutting die which is employed.

Fig. 6 is'a plan view showing the sole in position for cutting.

Figs. '7 and 8 are detail sectional views, at line 1--8 of Fig. 6,illustrating the cutting operation.

Fig. 9 is a sectional View of a sole after cutting.

Figs. 10 and 11 are views of the heel portions of different types ofsoles after being operated Fig. 12 is a'view of the outer side of thesole shown in Fig. 10 after attachment of the heel.

I In Fig. '1 of the drawing the'twomembers of l a common form ofdieingout machine are indicated, the bed member H) being indicated asreciprocally movable'to and from the die carry- "ing member l2, bothmembers being shown as held in an'inclined position, which is theposition in which they are normally held when employed in abenchmachine, to enable the operator better to see that he has theworkcorrectly positioned.

' A cutting die ll, of approximately U-form and having divergentlycurved end portions, as

I shown in Fig. 5, is mounted on the fixed member 12, and a bed plate 15is mounted on the member IIJ, said plate having a gage plate l6mountedthereon between guide ways I! and having an adjusting screw l8threaded thereon and swiveled in the plate l5, whereby the plate l6 maybe conveniently adjusted. The gage plate is provided with the usualdiverging gage faces l9 at its front end, so that when the heel end of asole is. held there against, it will be correctly positioned withrelation to the cutting die. An

indicator arm 20 is also mounted on the plate l6, which cooperates withgraduations 2| on the plate l5 to indicate the correct positioning of tengagement of the edge of the die 14, but as the action in connectionwith both dies is identical only one is shown.

A presser plate 25 is mounted on the bed plate l5, the thickness ofwhich approximates to the thickness of the soles which are to be shaped--and the side edges 25 of which extend convergently and approximatelyparallel to, and for -a substantial distance from and within the line22, this distance also approximating to the thickness of the sole butpreferably being slightly greater than said thickness.

Before the operation, now to be described, is

performed, the gage plate I5 is adjusted with its indicator arm inregister with one of the marks 2|, which correspond to the type of heelto be attached and, as wood heel bases are, to a large extent,standardized, but comparatively few dif ferent adjustments arenecessary.

In performing the operation on a sole which is to be attached by McKaysewing, and to which a military heel-is to be attached, a sole x willfirst be channeled for McKay sewing in the ordinary manner, the channel.flap 1; being laid over on the grain side, as shown in Fig. '7. The heelend of the sole will then be held against the gage faces l9,'as shown inFig. 6, with its outer or grain side next the bed plate l5, as shown inFig. 7, theadjustment of the gage plate bein such that the heel breastline on the sole will be approximately at the dotted line 'l--8 in Fig.6. As the bed plate moves towards the die, the plate 25 first engagesthe middle portion of the grainside of the heel part of the sole,before, or at the time the edge of the die engages the opposite sidethereof, but as this engagement is opposite points between the endportions of the die, at'a substantial distance therefrom and the portionof the bed directly over the edge of the die has not yet engaged thesole, the presser plate 25 will press the portion of the sole which itengages down within the die before the latter begins to cut, so that theedge portions of the sole are bent upwardby the die to an obliqueposition, as shown in the dotted line position in Fig. 7, until theybecome engaged by the bed plate. As a result the out which is then madethru the sole will be at an oblique angle thereto, so that the edge ofthe sole portionwhich' is opposite the presser plate 25 will be beveled,while the portion between the plate 25 and the rear end of the sole willbe cutsquare, as shown in Fig. 10, thereby removing the edge portion ofthe sole about the heel part, and, at the same time, cutting off the endportions of the channel fiaps y at each side of theheel part, the'endportions 2 of which are left being pointed, as indicated by the dottedline positionof Fig. 10, so that when they are turned out to cover upthe channel after sewing on the sole they will project out over thebeveled edge, as shown in Fig. 12.

It is to be particularly noted, that the beveled edge, which is formedon the side ed e of the sole, extends for a substantial distance infront of, as well as in the rear of the breast line, so that, when the,heel is attached, which be in approximately the position shown in dottedoutline in Fig. 12, the corner portions of the heel at the breast willbear on these end portions of the channel flap, which have then beenturned down to cover the stitches, and as the sole edge portionsdirectly beneath the corner portions of the heel have been beveled to asharp edge, these portions will yield and will not prevent these cornerportions at the side of the heel from seating firmly against the shoeupper, and at the same time the corner portions at the heel breast sidewill seat firmly against the outer surface of the sole, so that aperfect joint between the heel base and the shoe upper and sole will beformed at all points, regardless of variations within certain limits, ofthe distance from the back of the heel to its breast edge. Inconsequence, by employing the foregoing method, the cutting on operationmay be initially performed on the sole before attachment, and while thisoperation will be performed with reference to the size of the base ofthe heel to be attached, variations will be permitted Within certainlimits and the necessity of forming .a shoulder or otherwise fitting theheel to the particular shoe to which it is to be attached will beavoided, and, at the same time, the results secured will be much moresatisfactory than those secured by prior methods.

In this connection it is to be noted that if the heel margin portionwere out off and its edge portion beveled before the sole was channeledand the heel were attached in the position noted, the channelingoperation would remove the grain surface at the space w in Fig. 12,leaving at this point, either a notch in the sole, or surface whichcannot be finished properly.

The operation on a sole to which a French heel is to be attached issimilar, except that the sole is placed in position with its grain sidenext the die, the split-off tongue being turned back, with the resultthat the beveled edges are formed on the side of the sole next thetongue, as shown in Fig. 11. In this instance also the beveled edge willbend or yield sufficiently to permit the side portion next the breastedge tobear firmly against the upper.

In performing the latter operation, the other die, having a cutting edgecorresponding to the line 23 and a longer presser plate 25, will beemployed and the gage plate l5 will be adjusted to a rearward position,so that the part removed will be of a considerably greater length, thisbeing necessary to provide a tongue on the sole of sufilcient length toextend to the top of the breast of a high heel.

It will be noted that as the beveled edge which is formed on the sole ineach instance extends for a substantial distance adjacent the breastline, the exact location of the breast edge of the heel is notimportant, as it will be possible to press the side edge at the breastline against the upper at any point where the sole is beveled.

We claim:

1. The method of preparing soles for the attachment of military typeWood heels for McKay sewed shoes, which consists in first channeling thesole and turning back the channel flap onto the grain surface, thenremoving the sole heel part margin by a continuous out which extendsabout its rear end and diverges to the side edges in front of the breastline, the diverging portions of the out being inclined outwardly fromthe flesh side of the sole to form beveled edge portions which extendpast the heel breast line, whereby the end portions of the channel flapmay subsequently be bent back over the channel to provide a yieldableseat of substantial length for the corner portions of the heel.

2. The method of preparing soles for the attachment of military typeheels to McKay sewed shoes, which consists in removing the sole heelpart margin, while the channel flap is turned over the grain surface, bya continuous out which extends about the rear end and diverges to eachside edge to points in front of the normal position of the heel breastline, the end portions of the cut for a substantial distance in frontand in the rear of said breast line being beveled outwardly from theflesh side of the sole.

FREDERICK L. ANDERSON. NICOLAS CRISPINO.

